The way diamonds are cut has evolved dramatically over the centuries, with each new style designed to maximise a stone's beauty, brilliance and fire. Early diamonds, dating back to the Middle Ages, were left largely in their natural crystal form or simply polished, as the extreme hardness of the stone made cutting difficult.
By the 15th and 16th centuries, cutters had developed the Point Cut and Table Cut, followed by the Rose Cut, which featured a flat base and domed top covered in triangular facets. These cuts reflected the candlelit interiors of the period, where soft flashes of light were more desirable than intense brilliance.
The 17th and 18th centuries saw the introduction of the Old Mine Cut and later the Old European Cut. Both featured larger facets and a higher crown, producing a warm, romantic sparkle that remains popular with collectors today. These hand-cut diamonds were unique, with each stone shaped to retain as much weight as possible from the original crystal.
The greatest breakthrough came in 1919 when mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky published his calculations for the Round Brilliant Cut, establishing the ideal proportions for maximum light return. This design, with its 57 or 58 facets, remains the world's most popular diamond cut and is considered the benchmark for brilliance.
Modern technology has also led to the development and refinement of a wide variety of fancy cuts, including the Princess, Emerald, Oval, Pear, Marquise, Cushion and Radiant cuts. Computer-guided cutting techniques now allow craftsmen to achieve extraordinary precision while balancing beauty with maximum yield from the rough diamond.
Today, diamond cutting is both a science and an art. While modern cuts are engineered for exceptional brilliance, antique cuts continue to be prized for their individuality, character and historic charm. Together, they tell the story of centuries of innovation, craftsmanship and changing tastes in jewellery design.
