Art Deco jewellery refers to a distinctive style of jewellery that emerged in the early 20th century, particularly in the 1920s and 1930s, and was influenced by the broader Art Deco movement in art and design. This period was marked by geometric shapes, clean lines, and a sense of modernity, which made its way into jewellery designs.
Geometric and Symmetrical Designs
Geometric and Symmetrical Designs
- Key Characteristic: One of the most defining features of Art Deco jewellery is its geometric and symmetrical designs. Unlike the flowing, organic lines of the Art Nouveau period, Art Deco embraced sharp angles, straight lines, and bold, repetitive patterns, such as zigzags, chevrons, and stepped motifs.
- Common Motifs: Popular motifs included circles, squares, triangles, and sunbursts, often incorporating stylized forms of animals, flowers, and human figures.
- Art Deco jewellery often utilized bold, contrasting colours. Gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies were often set in combination with black onyx, coral, jade, or enamel. The combination of these rich colours and materials gave Art Deco jewellery its striking, modern appeal.
- The use of materials like platinum, white gold, and sometimes yellow gold, was also common, enhancing the visual contrast with colourful stones.
- The Art Deco period coincided with technological advancements, leading to the introduction of new materials and techniques in jewellery making.
- Platinum: Platinum became more popular during this time for its durability and ability to hold diamonds and other stones securely. It also had a sleek, shiny appearance that fit the modern aesthetic.
- Enamel and Glass: Art Deco jewellery designers also used enamel and coloured glass, which allowed for vibrant colour combinations at more accessible price points. Bakelite, an early plastic, became a favoured material for more affordable jewellery.
- The Art Deco style was globally influenced by art movements and cultural trends, including African, Egyptian, Asian, and Aztec art.
- Egyptian Revival: The discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 sparked a fascination with Ancient Egypt, and Egyptian motifs such as scarabs, hieroglyphics, and pharaoh figures were incorporated into Art Deco designs.
- Japanese Influence: Art Deco jewellery also featured stylized elements from Japanese art, including motifs like cranes, dragons, and chrysanthemums, often executed in a simplified, geometric manner.
- Art Deco jewellery is often admired for its sculptural, almost architectural quality. Many pieces appear as miniature works of art, with intricate detailing and precision.
- The craftsmanship was highly important during this period, and jewellers created pieces with a high degree of skill and attention to detail.
- Some of the most renowned jewellery designers during the Art Deco period include:
- Cartier: Known for their luxurious and refined designs, Cartier created many pieces that have become synonymous with Art Deco elegance, such as the famous "Tutti Frutti" collection.
- Van Cleef & Arpels: The brand played a significant role in Art Deco jewellery design, producing innovative and timeless pieces, including their iconic clip brooches.
- Jean Fouquet: A French jewellery designer who helped popularize geometric Art Deco designs.
- Brooches and Pins: Geometric brooches with diamonds, enamel, and onyx were among the most popular Art Deco pieces.
- Necklaces and Bracelets: Long, layered necklaces with bold geometric shapes, and bracelets featuring angular, stylized designs, were commonly worn.
- Rings: Art Deco rings often featured large central stones, such as diamonds or coloured gemstones, surrounded by smaller diamonds or baguette-cut stones in intricate, symmetrical designs.
- Earrings: Long, drop earrings with geometric shapes or designs incorporating diamonds and coloured stones were a popular choice.
- The Art Deco style has had a lasting impact on jewellery design and continues to be influential today. Many contemporary designers still draw inspiration from the bold lines, geometry, and luxury materials associated with this period.
- Art Deco-inspired pieces are often seen in vintage jewellery collections, and their timeless elegance makes them popular among collectors and those seeking unique statement pieces.
- Art Deco jewellery, especially pieces by well-known designers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron, can be valuable investment pieces. The scarcity of original Art Deco designs, coupled with their historical and artistic significance, means that well-preserved items often appreciate in value over time.
